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IF it hadn’t been for the biting northeastern wind the other day, you might have thought La Casa del Caffe in Morris Park in the Bronx was actually in Italy instead.
A steady stream of people exclaimed “Ciao!” as they stepped inside the cafe on Morris Park Avenue, its shelves stocked with Italian chocolates, pasta, amaretto cookies and panettone, the traditional Christmas sweet bread. A flat-screen television was tuned to an Italian-language talk show, and a stack of Italian newspapers in the corner blared headlines about AC Milan’s recent victory in the FIFA Club World Cup.
Behind the black granite counter, Anna Agovino steamed milk on a chrome Faema espresso machine. Ms. Agovino, an earthy, olive-skinned woman, came to New York from Salerno 14 years ago with her husband, Domenico, an espresso machine repairman, and their daughters Gemma, Mariangela and Stephany. The choice to move to Morris Park was an easy one for the family.








